I owe Rishikesh an apology of sorts. Not a full-blown, heat-felt apology, but an “I’m sorry, I was wrong” apology. It’s Bali’s fault really because the 'Eat Pray Love' crowd in Ubud have scarred me for life. You see, I was contracted to photograph several Eco-resorts in Bali a few years ago, one of them being a high profile ‘yoga & wellness retreat” overrun with brash american accents and catchphrases from the latest lifetsyle guru...I'm never going to get over it.
We were only in Rishikesh for 10 minutes and I knew it was a mistake coming here. Everywhere I looked there was a white person in baggy linen clothing and sandals and the streets were littered with signs for yoga, meditation, massage and breathing courses...it was an Ubud flashback. Lost souls wandering the streets looking for ‘the answer’. And, as to be expected, came the associated tourist-centric approach from the locals to cater for them – yoga studios, healing centres, spiritual retreats and American styled cafe restaurants. There’s even the option of a bungy jump or sky restaurant so that you can take a dive when your meditation doesn’t work out like you expected.
Rishikesh was already well set-up for this sort of thing though. Situated on the banks of the River Ganges, the holiest river in the world, it has been an important pilgrimage for Hindu devotees, made famous by the Beatles in 1968 when they came here to do a bit of Transcendental Meditation with their Guru Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. The banks of the river are lined with temples and ashrams and is known as the Yoga Capital of the world. It was only a matter of time until the western world discovered it.
So, anyway, back to me wanting to get us out of here and my apology.
Day two saw us up and out of the hotel early and on foot checking things out as we like to do. And the thing to do in Rishikesh is the Ram Jula Bridge, crossing the mighty Ganga. The walk over the hill from our hotel (and most other modern hotels) in Tapovan was a 25 minute game of dodgems with cars, motorcycles and auto-rickshaws (don’t walk back – spring for the 100 INR for an auto-rickshaw). This side is more the sort of India that I know and love – Indians on their pilgrimage to show their devotion to Lord Shiva, steps down to the flowing waters of the mighty Ganga and cheap street food.
However the 1200 INR ($22 AUD) entry price for foreigners (200 INR or $3.70 for locals) to the famous Beatles Ashram was too much to ask for, especially since it is in ruin and covered in graffiti. The plus side to it all was meeting fellow adventurer Charlie Power, a cinematographer from Sheffield in England. The writer’s strike in Hollywood has affected work prospects in the UK for Charlie and then with the passing of his much loved Grandmother, he had all the inspiration he needed to hire a Royal Enfield motorcycle and ride around India until his time (or money) runs out. What an awesome bloke!
After taking a few photos of Charlie to add to his adventure library, we headed back to our hotel to pack and get ready for an early departure the next day. Saying goodbye to Rishikesh wasn’t hard, but I had to admit that my first impression, while accurate, was a bit harsh. But redemption was thanks to the River Ganges and that beautiful cold glacial water running down from the mountains, complete with tourists in bright vests and inflatable rafts.
Posted By expedition-happiness-tours
Updated : 8th November 2023 | Words : 612 | Views : 94
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